However, that is in relation to the proper mixing ratio. Some labels may even tell you if the cleaner is non-corrosive. These high-alkaline cleaners are very corrosive if not rinsed off properly. In my personal experience, I’ve had only one occasion to use this cleaner, and it was for a coil I knew would not last too much longer anyway. This brown cleaner is another great solution for ultra-greasy applications and really impacted coils. Often labeled as “Extra Heavy Duty,” this brown cleaner is typically a more concentrated alkaline coil cleaner than the blue cleaner. I’ve been splashed in the eye with blue cleaner before, and it does not feel good at all! When handling any cleaners, be sure to wear gloves and protective eyewear. I’ve been in many circumstances where the coil was outside a restaurant and caked with grease where the only cleaners that could remove the muck were high-alkaline cleaners. The blue stuff is primarily used as a degreaser and coil brightener for the outdoor coil. It’s a high-alkaline cleaner that is extremely slippery in your hands if you ever get it on you. I’m not going to use brand names in this section of the article (I’ll discuss those later on), but we all know the blue cleaner. I understand as techs you don't always get to choose your cleaners so we are going to do a more general look at cleaners. It is the brand we use at Kalos and did well before they became a sponsor. We are MASSIVE fans of Refrigeration Technologies. I will also break down when and where each should be used and the safety practices to implement when using them. In this article, I want to highlight the main types of cleaners technicians use. It’s important to select the right one for your application and even more important to use safe practices when handling any cleaner. Many times, technicians chase what they think is a refrigerant charge problem, when really they have a cleanliness issue in the coils.Ĭoil cleaners can be found in a wide spectrum of acidity, alkalinity, colors, and strengths. Extremely dirty coils will negatively affect the performance and capacity of a system they can even lead to reduced airflow and serious component failure due to high or low pressure in the coils. One of the biggest parts of any maintenance is cleaning the evaporator and condenser coils. However, it is important to remember that the “shoulder seasons” provide an opportunity for us to perform vital maintenance on systems in order to keep them operational during the more extreme weather months. Some techs see this as a chore and don’t particularly enjoy the routines of checklist maintenance. Be gentle if you do use it.Spring and fall are the seasons where all service technicians get turned into janitors. I used a softer brush, as I felt it was a little stiff for delicate aluminum fins. Don't lose it! I bought two cans and, after I got home, I noticed that one nozzle was missing - luckily, I had the second can. The nozzle is also special to the can and is important for the foaming action. The nozzle can take an extension tube! While the can doesn't come with one, I dug up a long one (used for throttle body cleaning) and it was perfect to snake into the car's AC evaporator through the blower duct. A higher volume of water will be better at flushing out debris, especially from drains.
If possible, always rinse directly rather than waiting for the condensation to rinse it away. I made sure to rinse the house condenser from the inside out, and there's a notable increase in airflow! One can was enough to clean an SUV's AC condenser once and the evaporator core twice another can was enough to clean the house HVAC condenser. This stuff works well and is a solid value for the can.
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